Here + There · Melides
Last September—after a busy summer with Summer Hours—I headed to Portugal for a sun-drenched, slow-paced weekend in the village of Melides. Located about 80 miles south of Lisbon, and 18 miles beyond the better-known beach town of Comporta, Melides still feels quietly undiscovered.
At its heart is a cobbled square edged by a whitewashed church, a few cafés and local shops, and homes that hint at lives lived simply but well. A short stroll away, tucked behind unassuming walls, is Hotel Vermelho.
STAYING
Hotel Vermelho is the first hospitality project from designer Christian Louboutin. Vermelho—Portuguese for red—nods to his signature color.
Built in the traditional Alentejo style, the hotel’s simple exterior blends seamlessly into the village. Inside, though, it’s 13 rooms are more maximalist—exquisite antiques, hand-painted tiles, colorful fabrics.
The hotel wraps around a lush garden blooming with red flowers (naturally) and overlooks a small plunge pool. The whole experience felt both nonchalant and extravagant.
EXPLORING
The Atlantic is just a short drive away from Melides. Pristine beaches stretch for miles—perfect for long walks.
The surrounding countryside is equally engaging—endless rice fields, enormous stork nests, rolling farmsteads.
TASTING
Vermelho’s restaurant, Xtian, is as artfully designed as the rest of the property, with a menu that is both local and seasonal.
For something simpler, a few restaurants in the village serve classic Alentejo fare— fresh seafood, rice dishes, rustic wines.
SOUVENIRING
Noemina Melides is a small, chic boutique owned by Noemi Marone Cinzano. Her curation of colorful clothing, accessories, and homewares is beautifully considered.
A few doors down, Vida Dura stocks handmade ceramics and textiles—many of which I recognized from Vermelho. The two women working in the shop laughed when I walked in; we’d chatted just ten minutes earlier while they were arranging flowers at the hotel. (Melides is that small.)
LINGERING
There is nothing quite like escaping to a place where the biggest event of the day is a poolside lunch and a stroll around town…
The Here + There travel series is written by Beth Maloney, Founder and Creative Director of Summer Hours, and is inspired by the brand’s fragrance collection.